Traditional Chinese Medicine
Traditional Chinese medicine is an ancient practice still used by millions of people all over the world — even though the modern scientific medicine has developed so much.
At the root of the traditional Chinese medicine is a belief that the individual (microcosm) is viewed as an integral part of the forces of nature (macrocosm). Taoist sages were able to perceive patterns common to both the external environment and the internal climate of the human body by carefully observing the nature. Over a period of thousands of years, the increasing observations of sages all over China led to the discovery of a complicated system of diagnosis and healing.
These traditional Chinese ancient remedies have more than withstood the tests of time. Now we go back to Chinese Medicine and the 5000 years of knowledge and present it in cosmetic products.
Chinese Medicine in Cosmetics
Herbal medicine is a vital part of traditional Chinese medicine, going back several thousand years. Chinese herbs are not only highly valued medicinal raw materials, but they also contain beauty properties.
Chinese herbs’ most accurate descriptions of nursing properties come from the famous medical book from the Ming Dynasty period in 1596, “Ben Cao Gang Mu”, which describes more than 170 types of herbs used for beautification. This extremely valuable heritage of the Middle Kingdom reaches its heyday in the modern, western world. The growing interest in eco-cosmetology, i.e. products based exclusively on natural plant extracts, with no synthetic chemical feedstock, makes us more willing to reach for specifics made from of natural ‘gifts’.
Chinese Herbs for Beautiful and Healthy Skin
Moisturizing – due to the polysaccharides and unsaturated fatty acids, along with other ingredients present in herbs, they soften the skin and help to rebuild its protective layers (hydro – lipid coat), which limits water evaporation process and improves skin hydration . In addition, herbs eliminate tension and irritation caused by a lack of moisture and irritants. There are different types of moisturizing herbs: aloe Vera, seaweed, peony, licorice, safflower, turnip, knotweed root, ginseng, ivy, evening primrose, Luffa and Lian Qiao Shi and Qian Herbs.
Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, itching and acne – antiseptic and antibacterial properties can be credited by the presence of alkaloids, saponins and essential oils. Herbs such as: Alkanna tinctoria, pagoda tree, rhubarb, aloe Vera, Japanese knotweed rhizome, angelica, Williams elder twig, peach blossom, wild mint, peony, Chinese yellow gentian and herbs of mysterious sounding names: Chai Hu, Ku Shen, Zhe Bei Mu, Yi Yi Ren, Dan Shen, Yu jin effectively treat dandruff, relieve itching, normalize the activity of the sebaceous glands, reduce sebum production and decrease the symptoms of acne.
Anti-ageing – those properties contained in herbs – vitamins, polysaccharides, flavonoids, minerals and plant hormones stimulate the metabolism of skin cells, speed up the process of renewal and regeneration. They act as antioxidants, protecting cells against the damaging effects of free radicals. We can distinguish different anti-ageing herbs: ginseng, angelica, pearl, Rhodiola root, ginkgo Japanese knotweed root, barberry, the fruit of Chinese magnolia-vine , the root of Chinese cochineal, San Qi, Rehmannia (Chinese foxglove), Jiaogulan, or Cha Ye Huang Qi, Dan Shen, and Dan Pi.
Improve the firmness and elasticity of the skin – tannins, saponins, and silicic acid increase the synthesis of collagen and elastin fibers that strengthen and rebuild the skin, making it more resilient, flexible and stronger. Herbs that contain elasticizing properties: aloe Vera, ivy, horsetail, European white birch or common quince fruit.
Absorbing the UV rays and leveling sun spots – Due to the presence of the tyrosinase enzyme, herbs act as an antioxidant neutralizing free radicals and absorb UV rays. In addition, they control the process of pigment (melanin) production, preventing the development of dark spots. They also have the properties to reduce occurring stains. Those herbs are: the thyroid Baikal, chamomile, Japanese cinnamon, Szechwan lovage rhizome, ivy, peony, dodder seed, aloe and Chai Hu (Bupleurum), Lian Qiao.
Improving microcirculation in the skin – the presence of flavonoids strengthens the blood vessel walls, while reducing their permeability and preventing puffiness. Better blood flow ensures proper transport of oxygen and nutrients and building blocks, which determine the proper functioning of the skin. On the other hand, a better flow of lymph facilitates the better the removal of toxins (waste products). Herbs that have these stimulant properties include: ginseng, Scutellaria baicalensis, astragalus, safflower, tamarisk, and Dan shen and Ganoderma (Lingzhi / Reishi Mushroom).
To prevent hair loss and strengthen the hair follicles – which is due to; saponins, lactones and alkaloids. Herbs that contain these ingredients eliminate itching and irritation of the scalp, strengthen and nourish hair, stop hair loss and stimulate its growth. These herbs among others are: safflower, pearl, Chinese tree of life, ginseng root knotweed, Coix seed – coconut, Atractylodes rhizome and Huang Qi, Bai Zhu, Sha Ren, Shou Wu, Chen Pi, Fu Ling, Dang Gui, Chuan Xiong and others.
Known and Unknown Herbs
Some of the names of herbs, such as chamomile, Japanese ginkgo or horsetail are well- known. The other, most of us never heard of, especially since there is no little of herbs that have only native Chinese names. In order to understand the true value of Chinese herbs used in cosmetic products it is important to reach deep into the mystery of herbalism. Below there are examples of herbs/plants that are known and these that are less known to us and their properties that enrich cosmetic products.
Panax Ginseng
Occurrence: Hei Longjiang provinces, Jilin, Liaoning, and the mountains of northern Hebei Province.
Composition: about 200 active substances, including: organic acids, amino acids, peptides, vitamins (A, B1, B2, B6, And C) and trace elements (magnesium, calcium).
General properties: strengthens the immunity of the body, stimulating the immune systems, lowers blood sugar levels and regulates heart functions. Improves intellectual ability, increases concentration and removes fatigue. Especially recommended during periods of increased physical and intellectual activity, and a significant weakening (e.g. illness).
Used in cosmetology: Due to use of strong antioxidant properties (anti -free radicals) in the process of rejuvenating and anti-aging skin; it stimulates the metabolism of skin cells, helps to eliminate toxins, accelerates fat burning and nourishes the skin. Also used in anti-acne and dandruff products. It strengthens the hair follicles, improves blood circulation and reduces hair loss. Also prevents baldness.
Luffa Cylindrica
Occurrence: throughout China and India.
Composition: Fruit, seeds and juice contain a high level of active substances such as saponins, proteins and vitamins.
General properties: used in the treatment of dermatoses – eczema, pemphigus. It has a similar effect to anti-inflammatory steroids.
Used in cosmetology: fruit juice is rich in Luffa polysaccharides, and has moisturizing properties, improves softness and hydration of the skin. It soothers irritation and has anti-inflammatory properties.
Scutellaria baicalensis – Also known as golden root
Occurrence: mainly the provinces of Jilin, Hebei, Henan, Yunnan, Sichuan, and others.
Composition: rich in flavonoids.
General properties: reduces swelling and has anti-allergic properties. It fights germs, lowers fever and blood pressure. It is a diuretic. Reduces fat content in the blood, regulates the gall bladder function of and has a calming effect.
Used in cosmetology: it is a powerful antioxidant, rebuilds collagen and elastin fibers. Used in anti-aging and anti-wrinkle products. It is a natural sunscreen, absorbing a wide spectrum of UV radiation (UVA and UVB). Owing to its anti-allergic, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties is widely used in the treatment of acne and other skin dermatoses, also present in children and babies. Inhibition of the tyrosinase enzyme prevents the formation of pigmentation spots. Used in sunscreen preparations and lightening pigmentation creams.
Sea buckthorn ( Hippophae rhamnoides )
Occurrence: Tibet.
Composition: flavonoids, fatty acids, vitamins (A, C, E), proteins, amino acids, carbohydrates.
General properties: strengthens the immune system, stimulates the production of antibodies. Helps to treat stomach ulcers, strengthens the liver, lowers blood lipid levels, and has been found to prevent arrhythmia.
Used in cosmetology: prevents premature ageing of the skin, removes blemishes, softens and nourishes the skin. Used in the preparation of anti-ageing and brightening of complexion products. Also used in hair conditioners.
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